Reef Central Online Community
Champion Lighting

Home Forum Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences View New Posts View Today's Posts

Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Search Reefkeeping ...an online magazine for marine aquarists Support our sponsors and mention Reef Central

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > New to the Hobby
Register Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Old 05/10/2018, 09:43 PM   #1
lpsouth1978
Registered Member
 
lpsouth1978's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 591
Starting a new build and looking for opinions.

I am not new to reef tanks, but have been away for a while. I am now starting a new build. Originally I was planning on a 75 or 90g system, but I have switched gears and have decided on a 40 gallon system due to financial constraints. I purchased a 40B at the $1/gal sale that I was originally going to make into a sump, now it will become my display. This is where the opinions are wanted.

I purchased an Eshopps Eclipse M overflow and will be drilling the tank this weekend. My thought is that I will put the overflow in the middle of the back wall and then drill a return on either side (closer to the corners of the tank) of the overflow. I like the ide of dual returns because it would give more options for varying flow patterns. I know that this will not make up much of the flow in the tank, so have also considered just drilling a single return.

If this were your build, where would you put the overflow and return/s, and why. Any thought are appreciated. I would like to get this done this weekend, so need to make the final decision soon.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.


__________________
Current tank: 40B work in progress w/20L sump
lpsouth1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/10/2018, 10:04 PM   #2
AboutToBeReefin
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 37
if you are drilling anyways I would ditch the overflow altogether and drill the line going to the sump instead. :P

If you are going to keep the overflow I like your idea of two return holes. I have never done that. both bottom corners or one top corner and one bottom opposite corner sound on paper like you can do some interesting things. especially if you have ball valves to change the hole diameter up on the fly to tune it.


AboutToBeReefin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/10/2018, 10:05 PM   #3
AboutToBeReefin
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 37
I would stop and think if you would someday ever possibly get a bigger tank and use the 40g for a future sump. If so drilling with that in mind could make life easier in the future.


AboutToBeReefin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/10/2018, 10:24 PM   #4
lpsouth1978
Registered Member
 
lpsouth1978's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 591
Quote:
Originally Posted by AboutToBeReefin View Post
if you are drilling anyways I would ditch the overflow altogether and drill the line going to the sump instead. :P

If you are going to keep the overflow I like your idea of two return holes. I have never done that. both bottom corners or one top corner and one bottom opposite corner sound on paper like you can do some interesting things. especially if you have ball valves to change the hole diameter up on the fly to tune it.
I had considered not using an overflow, but I really don't like the look of bulkheads in the tank and want the weir to cover them.

If I think of the drilling in terms of planning for future use as a sump, I would probably do the overflow near a corner with the return on the opposite end of the tank. This would leave me with a 1" bulkhead for the drain, into the sump, on one end, and a 3/4" bulkhead on the opposite end for the return.


__________________
Current tank: 40B work in progress w/20L sump
lpsouth1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/11/2018, 03:43 AM   #5
homer1475
Registered Member
 
homer1475's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 4,782
It's a 40B for 40$. Drill away and junk it when you upgrade for a new 40b as the sump.

Personally I would do a coast to coast or ghost overflow, with 2 drilled in returns in each corner. I hate the look of the returns over the back if there is no canopy.

If your going to go through the trouble of drilling for an overflow, then whats 2 more holes for the returns?


__________________
80G SCA Build: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2560256

Originally posted by der_wille_zur_macht:

"He's just taking his lunch to work"
homer1475 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/11/2018, 01:10 PM   #6
Drewbe147
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Salisbury, MD
Posts: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by homer1475 View Post
It's a 40B for 40$. Drill away and junk it when you upgrade for a new 40b as the sump.

Personally I would do a coast to coast or ghost overflow, with 2 drilled in returns in each corner. I hate the look of the returns over the back if there is no canopy.

If your going to go through the trouble of drilling for an overflow, then whats 2 more holes for the returns?
+1 I find this the most aesthetically pleasing as well.


Drewbe147 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/11/2018, 01:39 PM   #7
nereefpat
Registered Member
 
nereefpat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Central Nebraska
Posts: 2,571
One more vote for overflow in the middle and a return on each side.


__________________
Pat

Current Tank Info: 125 in-wall , 40b sump. 6 bulb T5. ASM G2 skimmer. LPS and leathers
nereefpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/11/2018, 01:43 PM   #8
lpsouth1978
Registered Member
 
lpsouth1978's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 591
Thank you all for your responses. I had already ordered all of the parts that I need for this, but was questioning my decision. I will have the Eclipse M overflow, bulkheads, diamond hole saws, dill bit guide, and lockline returns tomorrow, and plan on drilling the tank as soon as they arrive.

The plan is to place the overflow on the middle of the tank with 2 returns (one on either end of the back wall). This should be an easy enough project, assuming I don't break the tank in the process. haha


__________________
Current tank: 40B work in progress w/20L sump
lpsouth1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/11/2018, 03:17 PM   #9
LennyD4
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 615
I just completed my 40B/20L sump build. I used a modular marine ghost overflow and drilled two 3/4 inch returns high on either side. I put both up high jusy incase of a power outage they will break siphon quickly and my sump will be able to hold that extra water. Here are a couple of pictures. In the close up shot you can barely see my overflow because I painted the back black.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


LennyD4 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05/11/2018, 03:24 PM   #10
Icewing726
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 115
Looks really nice. I like the rock arrangement. I have been warned about making sure the bases are sturdy. If you didn't anchor it theres some good aquascaping videos online. A hacksaw will cut those rocks so you can make a nice flat base and then drill a hole to put a piece of plastic coat hanger in as a peg to make sure that top rock can't topple. Wasn't that much work, only downside is chiseling turned out to be a lot of fun and I ran out of rock...


Icewing726 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/11/2018, 03:26 PM   #11
LennyD4
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 615
Thank you. I tried to go for a simple / less cluttered look. I have the rock directly on the glass then put the sand in. The top rocks are held down with putty but im not sure it worked so well...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Icewing726 View Post
Looks really nice. I like the rock arrangement. I have been warned about making sure the bases are sturdy. If you didn't anchor it theres some good aquascaping videos online. A hacksaw will cut those rocks so you can make a nice flat base and then drill a hole to put a piece of plastic coat hanger in as a peg to make sure that top rock can't topple. Wasn't that much work, only downside is chiseling turned out to be a lot of fun and I ran out of rock...
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


LennyD4 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05/12/2018, 02:42 PM   #12
lpsouth1978
Registered Member
 
lpsouth1978's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 591
I drilled the tank this morning and everything went VERY well for my first time drilling a tank. I very carefully measured the tank to find the correct placement of the overflow box and marked it. I then placed the return bulkheads on the tank where I wanted them, measured, and marked the placement. I ended up placing them 3" from both the top and outside edges of the glass.

The biggest problem I had was that I jumped the gun (moment of stupidity) and painted the back glass of the tank last week. Of course the paint got all kinds of messed up while drilling, so I scraped the paint off the back and cleaned it all up after I was done drilling. I think the thing that made this as successful as it was , was the drill guide that I purchased. it was like $12 on Amazon, but made all the difference.

Here are some pics. Let me know what you think.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20180512_121242_resized.jpg (51.2 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg 20180512_131652_resized.jpg (99.5 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg 20180512_131702_resized.jpg (103.6 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg 20180512_131656_resized.jpg (105.3 KB, 22 views)
__________________
Current tank: 40B work in progress w/20L sump
lpsouth1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/12/2018, 03:06 PM   #13
billdogg
Registered Member
 
billdogg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Grove City, Ohio
Posts: 9,856
Very nice job!

Sure is a bit nerve-racking that first time isn't it???

And then by the 3rd or 4th hole you're an expert!

More pics as it all comes together please.


__________________
I'll try to be nice if you try to be smarter!
I can't help that I grow older, but you can't make me grow up!

Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, ASM G2 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, no skimmer (yet)
billdogg is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05/12/2018, 04:39 PM   #14
Drewbe147
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Salisbury, MD
Posts: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpsouth1978 View Post
I drilled the tank this morning and everything went VERY well for my first time drilling a tank. I very carefully measured the tank to find the correct placement of the overflow box and marked it. I then placed the return bulkheads on the tank where I wanted them, measured, and marked the placement. I ended up placing them 3" from both the top and outside edges of the glass.

The biggest problem I had was that I jumped the gun (moment of stupidity) and painted the back glass of the tank last week. Of course the paint got all kinds of messed up while drilling, so I scraped the paint off the back and cleaned it all up after I was done drilling. I think the thing that made this as successful as it was , was the drill guide that I purchased. it was like $12 on Amazon, but made all the difference.

Here are some pics. Let me know what you think.

Looks great! Well done! Keep us up to date as you get things set up.


Drewbe147 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/13/2018, 12:27 AM   #15
lpsouth1978
Registered Member
 
lpsouth1978's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 591
Quote:
Originally Posted by billdogg View Post
Very nice job!

Sure is a bit nerve-racking that first time isn't it???

And then by the 3rd or 4th hole you're an expert!

More pics as it all comes together please.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drewbe147 View Post
Looks great! Well done! Keep us up to date as you get things set up.
Thank you both. I love seeing the tank come together and the and really enjoy the work that goes into making it.

I did make a little more progress today. After I was done drilling the tank I repainted the back and let it dry for most of the day. While waiting for the paint to dry, I went to the hardware store and got materials to work on the plumbing. I have started to dry fit everything but I failed to get any 1" fittings for the drains. I have most of the return plumbing completed, just need to get a hose barb to connect between the pump and PVC.

I also picked up a 36"x18" shelf unit. It fits the tank PERFECTLY and I think it will work nicely as an inexpensive stand. Each shelf is rated to 600lbs, which is much more weight than will be on them. I will be making some sort of panels to cover the stand. I am considering a faux brick wall panel that I saw at the hardware store. I could easily mount it to the stand and I think it would be a nice look.

Finally, I stopped by the LFS and picked up a 20L tank that will serve as my sump. I am still deciding whether to just make my own baffles, or purchase a ready made set. I am leaning toward the Fiji Reef Baffle kit. I like the layout they have and the kit is only about $100, I think it would cost me just as much to make my own, and I doubt it would be as good.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20180512_194256_resized.jpg (51.4 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg 20180512_194744_resized.jpg (40.8 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg 20180512_194750_resized.jpg (83.2 KB, 21 views)
__________________
Current tank: 40B work in progress w/20L sump
lpsouth1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/13/2018, 02:10 AM   #16
ramseynb
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: New Braunfels, TX
Posts: 644
Looks similar to my 38g. I love my Eshopps overflow! I did drill mine slightly lower to allow water to flow over the top of the teeth every got clogged (probably too much paranoia in retrospect). I only drilled one return but my tanks more of a cube. Either way, looks very slick man! Use a gate valve on your main drain and donít cheap out and use a ball valve. Also, putting a valve on your return well greatly help you dial in the herbie style drain.


__________________
How do you make an octopus laugh?

Ten tickles!
ramseynb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/13/2018, 08:02 AM   #17
j.falk
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 315
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpsouth1978 View Post
I also picked up a 36"x18" shelf unit. It fits the tank PERFECTLY and I think it will work nicely as an inexpensive stand. Each shelf is rated to 600lbs, which is much more weight than will be on them. I will be making some sort of panels to cover the stand. I am considering a faux brick wall panel that I saw at the hardware store. I could easily mount it to the stand and I think it would be a nice look.
Wouldn't the saltwater rust out the metal shelving pieces and weaken them over time? I would never use a metal stand on a marine tank as saltwater is very corrosive and you will spill some eventually or the fish will splash it out. You might really want to reconsider. Building a stand out of 2 x 4 lumber is easy, cost effective and a heck of a lot more durable.


j.falk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/13/2018, 08:39 AM   #18
lpsouth1978
Registered Member
 
lpsouth1978's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 591
Quote:
Originally Posted by j.falk View Post
Wouldn't the saltwater rust out the metal shelving pieces and weaken them over time? I would never use a metal stand on a marine tank as saltwater is very corrosive and you will spill some eventually or the fish will splash it out. You might really want to reconsider. Building a stand out of 2 x 4 lumber is easy, cost effective and a heck of a lot more durable.
Thanks for the advice. I have considered this, but I am no builder. The last time I attempted to build a stand, it was incredibly crooked and totally unusable. Also, It is cost effective to build a stand, if you have the equipment to do so. I, do not. I only have a jig saw, no circular saw, miter saw, or table saw, so I would have to but some tools to build one adding greatly to the cost.

I think that the shelving should be fine for several years, by which time I should have a much larger tank ready to go. I am planning on a 125 build, but am planning a couple of years to gather all of the equipment to do it right.

I will also paint the metal parts with a number of coats of rust-olium to help slow the damage, I know it is not the perfect solution, but I think it will be ok for a good while. Almost all of my aquarium stands have been steel, though not a shelving unit like this, and I have never had any problems in the past.


__________________
Current tank: 40B work in progress w/20L sump
lpsouth1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/13/2018, 11:52 PM   #19
lpsouth1978
Registered Member
 
lpsouth1978's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 591
I made a little more progress today. I was able to get the stand painted with 4 coats of Rust-Oleum. I think the stand actually looks better now too. It was originally a dark brown color, now it is a gloss black.

I was also able to get most of the plumbing figured out and even glued much of it. I used Ball valves to get it figured out, but did not glue them on. I have gate valves on order, and will put them in place of the ball valves. They should be here in a few days, I will complete the plumbing then.

Along with the gate valves I also ordered the return pump. I went with the Jebao DCP-8000. It is a very large pump for this system, but I figure I can run it at a low setting and have plenty of flow remaining to run additional equipment down the road if I choose. On the lowest setting They rate it at about 633gph. The overflow box is rated to 800gph. I also figure that their flow is overstated by the manufacturer. Factor in head loss, elbows, etc., and it will probably be run on setting 2 or maybe even 3. I plan on filling the tank with tap water and doing a good leak test once the gate valves and pump arrive. I will continue to update with progress.


__________________
Current tank: 40B work in progress w/20L sump
lpsouth1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/14/2018, 02:48 AM   #20
homer1475
Registered Member
 
homer1475's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 4,782
Just a word of caution on plumbing......

99% of our plumbing is not under pressure(except for the returns of course) and does not need to be glued in place. Most times friction is all thats needed. If you ever need to take it apart for some reason(fish stuck in the gate valve, snail stuck in pipe preventing a siphon from starting, etc) it's nice to have either plenty of unions, or not to glue the drain lines at all so they can be easily taken apart and cleaned. Most certainly put a union down close to your return pump in case you ever need to replace it.

I certainly would not glue them in the overflow box. I can't tell you how many times I have had to pull the pipes in my overflow to "fish" something out of the overflow box.


__________________
80G SCA Build: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2560256

Originally posted by der_wille_zur_macht:

"He's just taking his lunch to work"
homer1475 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/14/2018, 07:34 AM   #21
Rjukan
Day Dreamer
 
Rjukan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SINY
Posts: 611
Have other people used those storage racks for stands? I would be incredibly worried having that much weight on one with little to no horizontal bracing. Maybe if it was anchored to a wall, or wedged into the corner I would feel better, but free standing like that with that much weight is scary. Push it a bit from the side and if there is any play you should do something now rather than later.


__________________
- Pete

Current Tank Info: 60 gal Deep Blue cube, AquaC EV180, Kessil H80 fuge, A360WE TB
Rjukan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/14/2018, 08:07 AM   #22
j.falk
Registered Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 315
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rjukan View Post
Have other people used those storage racks for stands? I would be incredibly worried having that much weight on one with little to no horizontal bracing. Maybe if it was anchored to a wall, or wedged into the corner I would feel better, but free standing like that with that much weight is scary. Push it a bit from the side and if there is any play you should do something now rather than later.
I agree. There's probably a good reason they don't make or sell anything similar to those shelving units to be used for stands in the aquarium hobby. But I have to admit, I'm curious to see what will happen. It's 458 lbs of weight and 40 gallons of water...what could possibly go wrong?


j.falk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/14/2018, 01:20 PM   #23
lpsouth1978
Registered Member
 
lpsouth1978's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 591
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rjukan View Post
Have other people used those storage racks for stands? I would be incredibly worried having that much weight on one with little to no horizontal bracing. Maybe if it was anchored to a wall, or wedged into the corner I would feel better, but free standing like that with that much weight is scary. Push it a bit from the side and if there is any play you should do something now rather than later.
Quote:
Originally Posted by j.falk View Post
I agree. There's probably a good reason they don't make or sell anything similar to those shelving units to be used for stands in the aquarium hobby. But I have to admit, I'm curious to see what will happen. It's 458 lbs of weight and 40 gallons of water...what could possibly go wrong?
So far with it empty it is quite stable. I will play with it when I do the leak test and let you all know. I actually got the idea from several YouTube videos using them. One guy has an entire fish room setup using only these. They were all freshwater systems, but the weight is the same.


__________________
Current tank: 40B work in progress w/20L sump
lpsouth1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/14/2018, 03:50 PM   #24
Rjukan
Day Dreamer
 
Rjukan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SINY
Posts: 611
I hear you. I'm just going on personal experience with a 60g cube. I ended up using an audio equipment rack to attach to the wall, and then screwed my stand into that because I didn't like how much movement there was when you touched the tank. My stand is made for the tank, and has contact area with the floor around the majority of the base. Yours only has those little angle corners in contact with the carpet, and the horizontal pieces are just locked in with those round bits, not bonded like a stand would be.

I don't want to make a big deal about it, but I'm worried about that set up and I would hate to hear there was a problem down the line if I didn't say something. I'm sure someone in your area would be more than happy to help build a proper 2x4 stand with you, or you could rent a mider saw from Home Depot for a very reasonable rate.

As far as the YouTube videos of people using them, check to see if they have them attached to the walls, or that the whole rack system goes wall to wall. If you took the horizontal movement out of the equation, I bet they would work fine, it's just the idea of it free standing that is making me nervous.

I have young kids, and while they know not to lean on the tank, their friends might not. God forbid something happens when you're not looking, that was my reasoning when I decided to connect mine to the wall for added stability.


__________________
- Pete

Current Tank Info: 60 gal Deep Blue cube, AquaC EV180, Kessil H80 fuge, A360WE TB
Rjukan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/17/2018, 09:08 AM   #25
lpsouth1978
Registered Member
 
lpsouth1978's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Colorado
Posts: 591
Not much happening right now, but looking for opinions on a sump. I have a 20L that i purchased with the plan to turn it into the sump. I have the material coming for the baffles tomorrow, but I can't decide on how I should set it up. I have always run refugiums in the past, but I don't think I will have room for a decent sized refugium and room for other equipment down the road (like various reactors).

I am considering foregoing the refugium, and just putting in a large Skimmer/reactor section in it's place. So, the sump would basically 3 chambers; the drain/filter sock section, the skimmer section, and the return section. I would place 2 baffles between each section, so that I have good bubble traps throughout. Or I could just leave most of the sump open, and only place baffles before the return pump for the bubble trap. What do you all think?


__________________
Current tank: 40B work in progress w/20L sump
lpsouth1978 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:58 AM.


TapaTalk Enabled

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2018 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2014
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.