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Old 12/31/2012, 12:31 PM   #26
karimwassef
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ROFLMAO! Thanks Laugh. I will repost today. How do you post?


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Old 12/31/2012, 12:36 PM   #27
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Jay, that's exactly how I plan to use it.


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Old 12/31/2012, 12:55 PM   #28
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How's this video?
Running 12 hours now

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Old 12/31/2012, 05:11 PM   #29
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Been on for nearly a day. Going to try to break it now...
Running it dry for an hour (pump off)
Running the pump but not the motor, then starting the motor into a full flow.
Any ideas for some other torture tests to see how robust it is?



Last edited by karimwassef; 12/31/2012 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 12/31/2012, 05:29 PM   #30
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Double post


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Old 12/31/2012, 09:41 PM   #31
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Not sure how abusive you want to be, but you could dump some salt in front of the pump and run the grains through the assembly.

A not quite as abusive one would be to restrict the 2" pipes down to something much much smaller, like 3/4" or 1/2". Something to build up pressure and simulate having locline nozzles only at the ends.


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Old 12/31/2012, 10:58 PM   #32
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Good ideas. Thanks.
If I restrict the flow, I'll have to glue the test fixture since its just pushed together.


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Old 01/05/2013, 12:16 PM   #33
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Great idea. I like the thought of using cheap parts that really work and are either disposable, maintainable and easily modified.

A few suggestions:

You'll need to lubricate the O-ring seals if they rotate against anything, or they'll quickly wear out and leak. There are non-toxic, water-proof silicone lubricants made for rubber and synthetic O-rings.

You should test for leaks by forcing the water through under fairly high pressure. You would do this by restricting the outlets to small diameters.

You mention a PVC extension. It's also known as a PVC expansion coupling or PVC repair coupling. I fount one at Lowes.com that comes in 1 1/2" diameter. I wonder if a larger diameter coupling would offer less resistance to rotational friction.

In case it comes apart under pressure, maybe you could use large diameter PVC pipe and caps to act as a protective "blast case" around the assembly. Just drill holes to allow the tubes to penetrate.

I can't wait to hear how it stands up to long term use.


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Old 01/05/2013, 01:05 PM   #34
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Thanks!

I considered the larger diameter first but it doesn't work well. The larger seals actually create more surface area to seal and more friction. Since there is no reason to use a large pipe, the smallest rigid pipe is best. Larger extensions are also longer. Also, the smaller the rotating shaft, the less potential restrictions you have to cut and smooth to make the fittings work. My original attempt was a 1" 4 outlet version and that was painful because the 3/4" and 1" pipes were too tight.. Needed a lot of sanding and then buffing to make them slide. The combination of 2" pipe, 1.5" rotating valve, 3/4" shaft and 1" seal was just right. It literally took less than 2 hours to do the whole thing.

I was looking at o-ring lubricants, but didn't know how they might effect the reef. Any recommendations?


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Old 01/11/2013, 07:43 AM   #35
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Ace hardware has non-toxic silicone lubricant for O-rings.
http://www.amazon.com/Ace-Silicone-G.../dp/B003LNV192

How long has it been running? Why not put it to the test in your sump/fuge? Give it a more powerful pump and see if it takes the abuse.


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Old 01/11/2013, 08:36 AM   #36
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Thanks. I plan to.
My sump is still in assembly, but I'm hoping to get the circulation up and running ASAP.


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Old 01/11/2013, 08:38 AM   #37
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Don't forget lots of pics and videos where you can.


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Old 01/11/2013, 10:34 AM   #38
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Sure. Here's my main build thread.


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Old 01/12/2013, 07:25 AM   #39
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I really like the design with the water coming in from the bottom. It started me thinking, and it occurred to me that it can be done without the extension piece, so you can make it shorter. The goals are to block any water from getting to the motor (like a large end cap opening downward to catch any spray and let it run back down the outside of the unit again), and allowing the motor to turn the shaft. I'll try to diagram something and post it.


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Old 01/12/2013, 10:12 AM   #40
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The concern is cost, complexity and performance under pressure. The extension allows for a pressure fit 3/4" internal shaft with no water getting to the motor.

I have another valve I can use some advice on. I am working on an actuated valve using a linear actuator and the same construction to open and close the valve (allowing for leakage of course).


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Old 01/12/2013, 03:55 PM   #41
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You can add a PVC plug anywhere between the water and the motor.

Did you do any sanding inside the 4-way fitting, or just to the rotating piece?


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Old 01/12/2013, 04:13 PM   #42
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It may be worth exploring, but rotisserie motors are cheap and powerful. Here's a variable speed rotisserie motor for $23 on Amazon. You'd have to protect it from saltwater mist. The question is whether the motor is quiet enough inside the cabinet not to be heard above the ambient aquarium sounds.

http://www.amazon.com/Grillmark-BBQ-.../dp/B003CHAKF8



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Old 01/12/2013, 05:20 PM   #43
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Excellent idea for the rotating diverter!
I only sanded the rotating shaft. Use a very fine sanding finish or you'll create more friction.


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Old 01/12/2013, 06:11 PM   #44
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Very cool

Great idea I will be making one in the future

Thanks for sharing


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Old 01/15/2013, 08:31 PM   #45
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Ok. Here is the valve version (not diverter)

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Old 01/15/2013, 08:37 PM   #46
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Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos


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Old 01/19/2013, 11:23 AM   #47
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karimwassef, I've been playing with your design and came up with a 4-way diverter. The bathtub check went very well, but things got a little messy when I used a Mag24. I also found a place that sells a 6-way fitting that can be used to make a shorter version of the 4-port diverter, but it has to be drilled because they took a 4-way and joined two additional ports to it without drilling. I have to cross-post to show you though.

http://www.thescmas.com/forums/showt...-flow-diverter

I also found a good motor for a lot less $, and I think it's probably going to be more durable in the long run because it's meant to be used to drive a pellet stove auger. It runs at 1-2 RPM, depending on what you get.

Thanks for the inspiration.


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Old 01/19/2013, 01:15 PM   #48
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very cool idea,...following along


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Old 01/19/2013, 02:38 PM   #49
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Great!

I found the 6 outlet too but only needed two alternating outputs. Great to see the adaptation works.

I am struggling with the straight valve now... The PVC portion works great, but the problem is that I need a linear actuator and the only solutions are $100+. I found automatic car door lock actuators but they're not very strong. I can't find a solenoid with a long enough stroke ~1"

I can go with a rotational motion but then I need a rotational actuator or a linear to rotational mechanism or gear.

I really need a low cost ~$40 linear actuator with a ~1" stroke... Preferably ac powered 110V to pull and with an internal spring to extend when not powered... Any ideas??


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Old 01/19/2013, 02:42 PM   #50
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Can you post your new motor info? Is it different than the rotisserie motor?


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