Reef Central Online Community

Home Forum Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences View New Posts View Today's Posts

Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Search Reefkeeping ...an online magazine for marine aquarists Support our sponsors and mention Reef Central

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > Do It Yourself
Register Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Old 03/20/2018, 09:52 AM   #1
Boochika
Registered Member
 
Boochika's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 158
Lightbulb Questions While Building My Own Stand

Ok so I started building my stand for my 80 gallon tank and I have a few curiosities about trying to make it as bullet proof as possible:

1. Should I seal the inside of the stand? I haven't seen a lot of people with the inside of the tank unsealed and raw wood and I wasn't sure why, is there an issue with contamination of the sump with water from condensation dripping back down if there is sealant on the top surface of the inside and support beams? I've also seen people with the inside top surface of their stands totally rotting and I don't want that either.

2. Venting; should I cut some vent holes in the top of the stand around the tank (i have some extra room around the tank where i could make some openings) or slots) or should I leave an open slot at the back of the tank? I was just concerned about moisture getting trapped inside stand and then against wall that could rot out either.

3. A lot of people have told me to put Styrofoam or something similar under the tank to help distribute the load of the tank evenly when setting it up, has anyone done this and what thickness Styrofoam? I'm a little nervous to do so because I feel like the padding underneath the tank could put unnecessary upward pressure on the glass and overstress it.

I know kind of long but just some questions I have thanks for any responses




Boochika is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/20/2018, 10:01 AM   #2
RobZilla04
Registered Member
 
RobZilla04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: St. Augustine, FL
Posts: 1,838
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boochika View Post
Ok so I started building my stand for my 80 gallon tank and I have a few curiosities about trying to make it as bullet proof as possible:

1. Should I seal the inside of the stand? I haven't seen a lot of people with the inside of the tank unsealed and raw wood and I wasn't sure why, is there an issue with contamination of the sump with water from condensation dripping back down if there is sealant on the top surface of the inside and support beams? I've also seen people with the inside top surface of their stands totally rotting and I don't want that either. You can seal the bottom of the stand. This will prevent water that spills over during cleaning from soaking into the wood. As for the top and beams above the sump level, there is really no point. Those shouldn't get wet much less soaked to the point they rot years later.

2. Venting; should I cut some vent holes in the top of the stand around the tank (i have some extra room around the tank where i could make some openings) or slots) or should I leave an open slot at the back of the tank? I was just concerned about moisture getting trapped inside stand and then against wall that could rot out either. Do you mean the top of your stand has a full sheet of plywood which the tank is going to rest on? Or is the stand width/length larger than the footprint of the tank? I still wouldn't put holes between the plywood under the base of the tank.

3. A lot of people have told me to put Styrofoam or something similar under the tank to help distribute the load of the tank evenly when setting it up, has anyone done this and what thickness Styrofoam? I'm a little nervous to do so because I feel like the padding underneath the tank could put unnecessary upward pressure on the glass and overstress it. Lots of folks have used Styrofoam but it is not entirely necessary. As long as the frame and top plywood is level and equal in height it will be fine. The tank is designed to be supported by its frame sitting on a flat surface.

I know kind of long but just some questions I have thanks for any responses




__________________
90g Mixed Reef
RobZilla04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/20/2018, 11:09 AM   #3
nereefpat
Registered Member
 
nereefpat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Central Nebraska
Posts: 2,817
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boochika View Post
3. A lot of people have told me to put Styrofoam or something similar under the tank to help distribute the load of the tank evenly when setting it up, has anyone done this and what thickness Styrofoam? I'm a little nervous to do so because I feel like the padding underneath the tank could put unnecessary upward pressure on the glass and overstress it.
It depends.

Rimmed tanks: No. You are correct that it puts pressure on the bottom panel. Rimmed tanks have "floating" bottoms.

Rimless: Yes. Most manufacturers will recommend this to even out the imperfections of the stand.


__________________
Pat

Current Tank Info: 125 in-wall , 40b sump. 6 bulb T5. ASM G2 skimmer. LPS and leathers
nereefpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/20/2018, 12:06 PM   #4
mcgyvr
Registered Member
 
mcgyvr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 17,191
There can be considerable moisture levels inside the stand due to the sump/lack of ventilation/salt creep/splashing,etc.... It would be "best" to paint and or seal everything inside the stand.. A few coats of regular latext paint is just fine.. Many even use shower pan liner or similar to create a "trough" inside so if the sump should start to leak it catches all or most of the water keeping it from spilling all over your floor..

If not leaving the back open then you certainly want to include some vents in the side and even use fans to blow dry air into the stand.. (note the use of fans also requires vent holes to let air out in addition to the holes for the fans themselves..

I would not use anything under the stand unless required by the tank manufacturer to retain the warranty,etc... They will recommend an exact material/thickness to use..
A trimmed tank will not require it..
And yes the wrong material choice there can cause more problems than it solves due to material compression,etc... over time..


__________________
Being blunt and having fun
mcgyvr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/20/2018, 12:48 PM   #5
Boochika
Registered Member
 
Boochika's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 158
I was planning on putting a back on the stand but leaving the upper third of the back completely open to allow ventilation. I was only a little worried about my wall soaking in the exhaust from my system.

I've heard about.tubs for the inside of the stand and I'll explore this.


Boochika is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/20/2018, 08:08 PM   #6
Dsekula
Registered Member
 
Dsekula's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sterling
Posts: 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boochika View Post
I was planning on putting a back on the stand but leaving the upper third of the back completely open to allow ventilation. I was only a little worried about my wall soaking in the exhaust from my system.

I've heard about.tubs for the inside of the stand and I'll explore this.
Ive used clear drylok on the inside of stands and wood in my bathroom. It's masonry sealent btw so I don't know if there's any negative to this but it workes well for me. I've seen people build inserts with sheet plastic too but never done this personally..
In my experience most acrylic or flat bottom glass tanks recommend or require a leveling surface but not those with frames. I've used a foam insulation sheet to help level surfaces in olderhomes with seasonal setteling.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


Dsekula is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/22/2018, 03:39 PM   #7
ctripi
Registered Member
 
ctripi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Easy bay , ca
Posts: 671
I paint the inside of stand with white appliance paint from home depot. Waterproof and enhanced viability


ctripi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/22/2018, 10:50 PM   #8
malfist
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 8
My partner and I build a stand for our 220 tank. We used no styrofom and vented the canopy. We did poly coat the outside and the inside floor of the stand to protect it. Saltwater isn't the best on wood.


malfist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/28/2018, 10:39 AM   #9
Boochika
Registered Member
 
Boochika's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 158
I've stained my stand with waterproof stain. Do I also need to coat it in a polyurethane coat as well? Seems like overkill but I want to be safe.


Boochika is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/29/2018, 03:09 AM   #10
Louis Z
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Montgomery,TX.
Posts: 1,192
Instead of using pine for stand , I used outdoor cedar 2x4 and 4x4 to try and ward off rot . Time will tell if I have to rebuild it. i have a previous pine top canopy that is constantly splashed and wet. It is mildewed and dislike the mess . So upgrading with a new tank and stand. I am going to use thin acrylic sheet under the new top to avoid moisture drips back into the sump ( Home Depot) I am using a plywood top over the cedar that the tank will sit on. I fiberglassed to avoid moisture and drip problems of the plywood. Will also use the flexible shower pan material to line the bottom of the stand. I want to catch the salt creep and splashes . The back is totally open to allow for circulation and using a thin acrylic sheet on the back wall to avoid moisture getting on the painted sheet rock . My canopy is yet to be built but my design is to use a aluminum inner frame with 1/4 acrylic sides that will be veneered on the outside with wood ( matching the stand oak plywood veneer). The top of the canopy will be open or vented in the back I overbuilt and overthought the stand but I just didnít like the idea of using plywood to hold up the tank. I see a lot of new stands built that way and didnít like it.


Louis Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/16/2018, 09:17 AM   #11
Boochika
Registered Member
 
Boochika's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 158
So i had a slight issue in on corner of my stand where my aquarium in one corner wasn't contacting the surface of the stand.

The tank manufacturer stated it shouldn't be an issue as long as the corners are supported and to shim under the corner. I didn't want it to look like it was shimmed so what I did instead was shim under the entire top of my stand between the frame and top with door shims to make it fit better and it's perfect contact not with the aquarium bottom.

Since this is a framed tank I don't see this as being a huge deal, it's still level as well. Has anyone else dealt with something like this?


Boochika is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/16/2018, 09:32 AM   #12
mcgyvr
Registered Member
 
mcgyvr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 17,191
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boochika View Post
So i had a slight issue in on corner of my stand where my aquarium in one corner wasn't contacting the surface of the stand.

The tank manufacturer stated it shouldn't be an issue as long as the corners are supported and to shim under the corner. I didn't want it to look like it was shimmed so what I did instead was shim under the entire top of my stand between the frame and top with door shims to make it fit better and it's perfect contact not with the aquarium bottom.

Since this is a framed tank I don't see this as being a huge deal, it's still level as well. Has anyone else dealt with something like this?
What you did is the "better" way to solve the problem..
All good..


__________________
Being blunt and having fun
mcgyvr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/16/2018, 11:10 AM   #13
Boochika
Registered Member
 
Boochika's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 158
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgyvr View Post
What you did is the "better" way to solve the problem..
All good..
Will this be a long-term concern going forward for my tank however?


Boochika is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/16/2018, 12:07 PM   #14
mcgyvr
Registered Member
 
mcgyvr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 17,191
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boochika View Post
Will this be a long-term concern going forward for my tank however?
No.. Having to shim an uneven stand/tank is fairly common..


__________________
Being blunt and having fun
mcgyvr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:14 AM.


TapaTalk Enabled

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2018 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2014
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.