Reef Central Online Community

Home Forum Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences View New Posts View Today's Posts

Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Search Reefkeeping ...an online magazine for marine aquarists Support our sponsors and mention Reef Central

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > Marine Fish Forums > Fish Disease Treatment
Register Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Old 02/13/2018, 05:44 AM   #1
shrimpman_oz
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 18
Tank Transfer Method - Temperature Sterilised

Hi There fellow reefers,

I've noticed a few spots on a coral beauty and I'm fairly confident its ich. As it turns out i'm pulling down the tank to swap it out for a new tank giving this one has sprung a leak. So, I need to catch all the fish anyhow. My fish are all very healthy, fat and in need of a treadmill so I'm confident they will make a full recovery if I act now.

I've noticed that TTM is a well-respected method, however, I wondered if I might be able to change the procedure a little. I've done a lot of reading on Cryptocaryon irritans and it would appear that 40deg kills the tomont and theronts stages. This is easy enough to achieve using a heater etc.

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/fa164
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2566716

This would allow me to setup two dedicated tanks, heating to 40deg between transfers.

Thoughts?


shrimpman_oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/13/2018, 02:38 PM   #2
lagatbezan
Registered Member
 
lagatbezan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,017
not exactly sure what you are trying to do.
40deg c is equivelent to 104F which is boiling water and you can't have any fish survive that temperature. If you mean you want to use it as a cleaning/disinfecting process that might work but your best bet is to clean everything with a 1:10 bleach:water solution, rinse well and let dry for 48 hours. This will eliminate any risk of ich surviving and causing a failure.
keep in mind TTM works great for ich but will not work against other parasites like velvet.


__________________
Ryan.
300g with velocity t4 for return and a Reflo dart on a closed loop, T5 lights & SRO3000 skimmer.

Current Tank Info: 300g
lagatbezan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/13/2018, 03:04 PM   #3
lapin
Registered Member
 
lapin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Austin
Posts: 459
If the table is correct it looks like it is possible. 40C is not near boiling. May feel like it in the sun sometimes. You need to be sure that everything to be disinfected is above 40C for the full hour. You will still need to change water due to ammonia levels.


lapin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/13/2018, 05:33 PM   #4
shrimpman_oz
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 18
The tank transfer method uses a lot of water and I'd like to reduce this. I'm proposing that I can use two tanks to transfer between using 40deg celsius as a way to destroy the Ich life cycle.

I presume the filtration bacteria would be fine at 40deg, therefore, negating the need to change water.


shrimpman_oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/13/2018, 07:06 PM   #5
shrimpman_oz
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 18
I can limited information on the maximum temperate of nitrifying bacteria however I did come across this. It would appear that 49C 122F will kill nitrifying bacteria so provided I'm within the limits my filtration may not be happy, however, it should not destroy it.

http://www.bioconlabs.com/nitribactfacts.html


shrimpman_oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/14/2018, 01:39 PM   #6
lagatbezan
Registered Member
 
lagatbezan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,017
Keep this in mind: when the tank is running there is always a little bit of splashing going on that will allow for some of the water of the tank to end up around the edges of the qt, on the cover, lights, top of the filter, ect. These wet spots are not going to be effected by the heated qt water and therefore can be harboring some parasites which can effect your qt process. after two days or whatever amount of time you will lower the temp in the qt to allow for another transfer to go into it and now those wet spots can drip and reinfect your qt again.


__________________
Ryan.
300g with velocity t4 for return and a Reflo dart on a closed loop, T5 lights & SRO3000 skimmer.

Current Tank Info: 300g
lagatbezan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/14/2018, 02:30 PM   #7
shrimpman_oz
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 18
You are quite right and i spent a little time last night looking at how it might be done. It did cross my mind that it may be an issue.

The one thing that was not clear in the TTM was how much water per fish was needed? What is recommended?


shrimpman_oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/14/2018, 02:42 PM   #8
lagatbezan
Registered Member
 
lagatbezan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,017
I don't think there is a specific formula or number that will show that. It all depends on what type of fish you are quarantining.
What is your livestock list and what size tanks are you using for the TTM?
Also your DT would need to be fishless for 76 days to make sure that all the parasites are eliminated from it.
If you are getting a new tank setup, you can get new sand and give a bleach OR acid bath to your rocks, let them fully dry and then you can reuse them safely. All your equipment would need to be sanitized with a bleach solution as well and then fully dried.
This way you can setup your new tank, all clean equipment, let it cycle and when your qt and observation is done, in the new tank the fish can go.
Another suggestion: if you can get your hand on chloroquine phosphate, that would make your life a lot easier. you will need a vet to give you a prescription for it. CP will treat for ich, velvet, uronema and brook. you treat once for 30 days and done with it.


__________________
Ryan.
300g with velocity t4 for return and a Reflo dart on a closed loop, T5 lights & SRO3000 skimmer.

Current Tank Info: 300g
lagatbezan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/14/2018, 04:18 PM   #9
Mishri
Registered Member
 
Mishri's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Great Falls, MT
Posts: 1,406
Interesting idea.. i'd get the temp to 106-110 if possible. which will feel very hot to the touch.. for 2 hours.. just to be sure. The other thing to consider is ammonia.. usually there is no filtration going on so you can probably use an ammonia binder if levels get too high... but with your method you might be able to run a filter, as long as it keeps running while the water is hot.

I'd do a wipe down of all areas with water splatter with a cloth with freshwater before you start it, once it hits 106F and at the one hour mark, then by the 2nd one hour mark it's highly unlikely any would survive. The only areas I'm seeing as a possible issue would be around a HOB filter... if you are using an in-tank sponge filter I wouldn't anticipate any kind of splashing...


__________________
300 gallon 8ft long, 2x xf250 gyre, reef octopus 250-int - work in progress
Aquarist since 1986
Mishri is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/14/2018, 07:03 PM   #10
shrimpman_oz
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 18
Sponge filtration would be perfect.

If you were to lower the water level and wipe all exposed areas with ethanol and vinegar. once exposed areas are sterilized heat the tank to 40. leave for 2 hours and refill to replace what was removed. I can see this potentially working.

On the other hand, we know the bare tank works. If you do this wrong and don't clean and heat properly you're in trouble.


shrimpman_oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:26 AM.


TapaTalk Enabled

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2018 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright 1999-2014
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.