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  #501  
Old 01/06/2008, 11:52 PM
melev melev is offline
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If you had a Tee in the line after the RO membrane and before the DI resin, you could let it run for 1 minute into a bucket or nearby sink, then take a sample of that water in your stolen McDonald's cup. Test it for TDS.

We need to know what the number is before the resin to see how well the membrane is working.

Anything under 10 TDS is fine. We like it lower, but compared to what is coming out of the tap, it's great. I change my filters out if it reaches 7, if you wanted a real-life comparison.

Currently, mine is actually 0. I installed a new membrane a couple of months ago, so TDS is 3 coming out of the RO membrane, and the DI takes out the rest to bring it down to 0.
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  #502  
Old 01/07/2008, 12:00 AM
jcpatella jcpatella is offline
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On the left-hand side after the carbon filter, you could possibly put a tee - this would give you drinkable water (and also let you test the water before the resin).
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  #503  
Old 01/07/2008, 12:13 AM
NanoGurl NanoGurl is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
If you had a Tee in the line after the RO membrane and before the DI resin, you could let it run for 1 minute into a bucket or nearby sink, then take a sample of that water in your stolen McDonald's cup. Test it for TDS.

We need to know what the number is before the resin to see how well the membrane is working.

Anything under 10 TDS is fine. We like it lower, but compared to what is coming out of the tap, it's great. I change my filters out if it reaches 7, if you wanted a real-life comparison.

Currently, mine is actually 0. I installed a new membrane a couple of months ago, so TDS is 3 coming out of the RO membrane, and the DI takes out the rest to bring it down to 0.
See... you're bragging.

Okay, that makes me feel better that it's under 7. Thanks for the info that helps a lot. I will see what I can do to get a reading tomorrow.
  #504  
Old 01/07/2008, 12:14 AM
NanoGurl NanoGurl is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by jcpatella
On the left-hand side after the carbon filter, you could possibly put a tee - this would give you drinkable water (and also let you test the water before the resin).
I only drink Deer Park water =)

Thanks, I'll look to see if I can get clown to do that. I have no idea how to make a T.
  #505  
Old 01/07/2008, 12:17 AM
jcpatella jcpatella is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by NanoGurl
I only drink Deer Park water =)

Thanks, I'll look to see if I can get clown to do that. I have no idea how to make a T.
Are you one of those!!!!???? What do you do when you go on vacation!!!!
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  #506  
Old 01/07/2008, 02:38 AM
melev melev is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by NanoGurl
I only drink Deer Park water =)

Thanks, I'll look to see if I can get clown to do that. I have no idea how to make a T.
This is how mine is done. The fitting in the center of the picture is called a Tee.



The left side is my RO system, the right side is the stand alone DI section. The tubing going down from the Tee goes to a ballvalve.

I use that ballvalve to collect one gallon of RO water at a time, which I then use to fill up a bunch of clean empty 20 oz bottles. Those bottles are stored in the fridge for when we want it later.
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  #507  
Old 01/07/2008, 09:00 AM
Cuby2k Cuby2k is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by NanoGurl
Is that the membrane thing?
yeah, you have to take apart the white tube on top of your filter setup.

I gotta tell you though, that 2 ppm doesn't seem too bad. I was reading around 50 ppm before I changed my filters including DI and it dropped to about 10 and soon crept back to the 40's. After I replaced the RO membrane it dropped to 0 where it is "resting" right now.
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  #508  
Old 01/07/2008, 09:29 AM
NanoGurl NanoGurl is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by jcpatella
Are you one of those!!!!???? What do you do when you go on vacation!!!!
Well since it's been six years since I went on vacation I don't even remember!
  #509  
Old 01/07/2008, 09:30 AM
NanoGurl NanoGurl is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
This is how mine is done. The fitting in the center of the picture is called a Tee.



The left side is my RO system, the right side is the stand alone DI section. The tubing going down from the Tee goes to a ballvalve.

I use that ballvalve to collect one gallon of RO water at a time, which I then use to fill up a bunch of clean empty 20 oz bottles. Those bottles are stored in the fridge for when we want it later.
Thanks, that photo helps. That looks pretty easy to do. Where can you get the T? Home Depot?
  #510  
Old 01/07/2008, 09:31 AM
NanoGurl NanoGurl is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cuby2k
yeah, you have to take apart the white tube on top of your filter setup.

I gotta tell you though, that 2 ppm doesn't seem too bad. I was reading around 50 ppm before I changed my filters including DI and it dropped to about 10 and soon crept back to the 40's. After I replaced the RO membrane it dropped to 0 where it is "resting" right now.
Oh wow.. okay kewl... I thought it had to be 0 before. I guess I should be happy with 2 (:

Thanks!
  #511  
Old 01/07/2008, 09:41 AM
GSMguy GSMguy is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by NanoGurl
Is that the membrane thing?
yep replace you membrane and carbon filters and your DI resin will not have to do soo much work and will last longer.
  #512  
Old 01/07/2008, 09:42 AM
NanoGurl NanoGurl is offline
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Yea i just replaced the carbon filters a few months ago.. but I don't think I've ever replaced the membrane thing.
  #513  
Old 01/07/2008, 11:06 AM
DrBDC DrBDC is offline
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I do the "T" on my RO output also before it goes to my DI. That line is run to my refrigerator for the ice and water.

You should get your DI output to 0. You need to dump that horizontal DI cartridge and get a vertical one. You can get those from a couple sponsors on here. I don't remember whether I bought from those filter guys or buckeye but it was about 35 bucks if I remember correctly. Melev probably has a hook up on them, I know he has the full units available (or he used to on his web site).
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  #514  
Old 01/07/2008, 12:02 PM
bohlke bohlke is offline
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I was thinking the same thing about the DI container, do you have the resin that changes color when its spent? Mine goes from blue to that brownish color, when its completely brown I change it but it seems to change color vertically. Typically my input to the DI is between 1-5ppm.

I run a T between my RO and DI, it goes to a 3G storage tank under the sink for drinking water.
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  #515  
Old 01/07/2008, 12:25 PM
conorwynne conorwynne is offline
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The membrane is the most expensive part! DI resin is way cheaper, at least over here in Ireland.

I would not change the membrane without checking the TDS alue as all here have suggested. Waste of money!

Regards
Conor.
  #516  
Old 01/07/2008, 01:59 PM
melev melev is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by NanoGurl
Thanks, that photo helps. That looks pretty easy to do. Where can you get the T? Home Depot?
Yes, they are sold as SpeedFit fittings. Another name is John Guest fittings.

The nice thing about them is that you just cut the tubing and press it into the ends, tug slightly and you're done. The blue retaining clips pictured above make sure the tubing stays in place. Home Depot also sells 1/4" icemaker tubing in the same section.

Remove the retaining clip if you have it, then make sure the tubing is cut nice and cleanly (a kitchen knife will do it, or a utility knife), then press it into the collet firmly until it can't go in any further. Tug slightly to seat it. Done.

If you have to remove the tubing, press the collet with your fingernail so that it is tight against the fitting, and the tubing can be pulled out again. The collet is the thing that grips and releases.
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  #517  
Old 01/07/2008, 05:46 PM
bower23 bower23 is offline
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I just bought a new RO/DI unit and I also bought an electronic tester. It has an input line and output line. Which you could put the input line before the unit or before the membrane. It's pretty cheap and is so easy. Turn it on and read it. I'll see if I can get a line for ya. Plus, I've always been told if you replace the membrane, replace the other filters at the same time. If not, the membrane will get dirty alot faster without the new filters in front of it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/DM-1-Inline-Dual...sid=p1638.m118
  #518  
Old 01/07/2008, 07:51 PM
NanoGurl NanoGurl is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by DrBDC
You need to dump that horizontal DI cartridge and get a vertical one.
Why? What is the difference?
  #519  
Old 01/07/2008, 07:52 PM
NanoGurl NanoGurl is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by bohlke
I was thinking the same thing about the DI container, do you have the resin that changes color when its spent?
Yea, it's green when it's good and turns to brown/orange when it's spent. It seems to work it's way from the top to bottom as well.

I guess that's why you want a vertical one?
  #520  
Old 01/07/2008, 07:53 PM
NanoGurl NanoGurl is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by conorwynne
The membrane is the most expensive part! DI resin is way cheaper, at least over here in Ireland.

I would not change the membrane without checking the TDS alue as all here have suggested. Waste of money!

Regards
Conor.
I will try to test it later and see. Thanks!
  #521  
Old 01/07/2008, 07:56 PM
Aquabucket Aquabucket is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by NanoGurl
Why? What is the difference?
You could always try to mount yours vertically. This helps prevent channeling and increases efficiency.
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  #522  
Old 01/07/2008, 08:01 PM
NanoGurl NanoGurl is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
Yes, they are sold as SpeedFit fittings. Another name is John Guest fittings.

The nice thing about them is that you just cut the tubing and press it into the ends, tug slightly and you're done. The blue retaining clips pictured above make sure the tubing stays in place. Home Depot also sells 1/4" icemaker tubing in the same section.

Remove the retaining clip if you have it, then make sure the tubing is cut nice and cleanly (a kitchen knife will do it, or a utility knife), then press it into the collet firmly until it can't go in any further. Tug slightly to seat it. Done.

If you have to remove the tubing, press the collet with your fingernail so that it is tight against the fitting, and the tubing can be pulled out again. The collet is the thing that grips and releases.
Okay thanks! That really helps. I never set up the RO/DI unit when we got it so I don't know a lot about it. I have to goto HD tomorrow anyway I will look and see what they got.
  #523  
Old 01/07/2008, 08:04 PM
NanoGurl NanoGurl is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by bower23
I just bought a new RO/DI unit and I also bought an electronic tester. It has an input line and output line. Which you could put the input line before the unit or before the membrane. It's pretty cheap and is so easy. Turn it on and read it. I'll see if I can get a line for ya. Plus, I've always been told if you replace the membrane, replace the other filters at the same time. If not, the membrane will get dirty alot faster without the new filters in front of it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/DM-1-Inline-Dual...sid=p1638.m118
Thanks for the link, that's pretty interesting!
  #524  
Old 01/07/2008, 08:05 PM
NanoGurl NanoGurl is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aquabucket
You could always try to mount yours vertically. This helps prevent channeling and increases efficiency.
Whats channeling?
  #525  
Old 01/07/2008, 08:14 PM
bower23 bower23 is offline
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that is when the water finds a certain 'path' through the resin which leaves parts unused... mount it vertically and it has to fill up around all of it... hard to explain
 

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