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Old 03/24/2017, 08:43 AM   #1
steallife904
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Photon V1s to Photon V2 question

Pulled the trigger last night and ordered the photon 50 V2 to replace 2 photon 16 V1s (really 1 V1 and a black box just like it). I was wondering if I still need to do a lower power acclimation for the first few weeks, I assume yes but want to make sure before I put it over the tank and fry the coral.

Also, how many actually run the red and green channel at a higher %? is there much benefit to these 2 channels, was already thing I may only peak them at 5 or so %. I am going for a bluer look so my plan is to have the blue and violet channels higher than white and ect..., anyone done anything similar?


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Old 03/24/2017, 08:53 AM   #2
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Definitely- it is always recommended to start around 30% when you make any lighting change.

The greens change the visual look of the light, as do the reds. The reds are 660nm, so they do contribute to growth as well.


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Old 03/24/2017, 09:30 AM   #3
steallife904
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ok good to know. I guess I will have to play with those colors to see what works best, as for everything else though I will start at 30%


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Old 03/26/2017, 09:10 AM   #4
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I don't know how it compares with the first gen, but even at 30% I thought it started bright, especially ch 4 (white). I started even lower, and worked up to the "default" custom setting in about 2 weeks. I've seen some people post about having these lights upwards of 80% and I don't know how. I top out at 60% on the blues and purple, less for the white and my coral is happy--as in improved color and growth (mixed reef).
All of this is trial and error, along with personal preference. I'm sure I'd learn more with a PAR meter.


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Old 03/27/2017, 05:27 AM   #5
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Please do NOT trust your eyes to decide if something is brighter or dimmer than something else. There are too many factors that come into play, not the least of which is the fact that your eyes adjust to bright and dim.

I have a PAR meter and I found the V2 has a bit higher PAR than the V1 did at the same power settings and at the same distance, but they are pretty close.

I started my V2 at just 20% lower (20%W & 70%B) than I was running my V1 and everybody did just fine. After a week I raised it to just 10% below my V1 and the PAR at the water is almost the same.


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Old 03/27/2017, 09:19 AM   #6
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thanks for the feedback Ron. That should give me a good idea where to start since I am coming from the V1s. Guess the only one I am going to have to play with are the green and red channels. thinking I will start them in the 10-15% range or should I just go with 30% from the start?


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Old 03/27/2017, 06:49 PM   #7
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I don't use them at all. In my tank they add some red and green edges to the shimmer in my tank and I don't care for it. I also don't think they are very important to coral growth of color. But that's just my opinion. All the led manufacturers sure seem to think they are necessary! My personal belief is they include them to make the 'Full Spectrum' marketing claim.


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Old 03/27/2017, 07:40 PM   #8
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This is, in part, what I meant about "personal preference". Logan says the reds do, in fact, contribute to growth. That may be true, but for me I use them mainly for visual effect, especially at the beginning and end of the day.
As far as the PAR meter, I agree it's the best way to set the lights, I just don't have access to one and didn't want to spend the money. I enjoy going slow and seeing the effects when I make changes.


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Old 03/28/2017, 04:18 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reefteaser View Post
This is, in part, what I meant about "personal preference". Logan says the reds do, in fact, contribute to growth. That may be true, but for me I use them mainly for visual effect, especially at the beginning and end of the day.
As far as the PAR meter, I agree it's the best way to set the lights, I just don't have access to one and didn't want to spend the money. I enjoy going slow and seeing the effects when I make changes.
BTW, I agree with Logan, and most of the available research, that the red spectrum does contribute to growth (not the green). But it is a small percentage of the total and I prefer to run without it. I feel the amount of red spectrum that comes from the white leds (full spectrum) is enough. But that's just my opinion.


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Old 04/03/2017, 01:18 PM   #10
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thought I would say that I setup my 50 V2 on Saturday and love it, the color is just what I wanted. think every 5 days I will bump up the power by 5% until I get it around 60%. Right now I only have it hitting 30% max around 1 and 2 in the afternoon.

Since I have the new light up and the old photon 16s down I am selling them if anyone is interested. 1 is actually brand new in the original box never opened. will be updating my for sale post in the for sale thread tonight with pics. if interested let me know.


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Old 05/08/2017, 12:24 AM   #11
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Any updates?


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Old 06/02/2017, 05:31 PM   #12
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Should I get the 24 v2 or the 32 v1? My tank is 24 inch deep, 18 front to back, and 36in wide.


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Old 06/03/2017, 04:08 PM   #13
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I personally won't run a light with bridgledux LED's again so I would say the V2.


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Old 06/04/2017, 05:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssteve View Post
I personally won't run a light with bridgledux LED's again so I would say the V2.
I'll humbly disagree. I have used a lot of fixtures from several brand names that use Bridgelux leds and I never had any issues with them. I still use one over my refugium. I now have fixtures that use mostly Cree and OSRAM over the tanks and they may be better made leds, but as far as the PAR I get and the spectrum I get, I don't see a spits worth of difference.

Just what is it about the Bridgelux leds that you find to be a problem?


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Old 06/04/2017, 08:33 AM   #15
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I've owned several and have had pretty bad luck with reliability. I agree they can work just fine. I have seen some amazing tanks lit by the t247b, I just wouldn't own anything with them that's all.


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Old 06/04/2017, 12:48 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssteve View Post
I've owned several and have had pretty bad luck with reliability. I agree they can work just fine. I have seen some amazing tanks lit by the t247b, I just wouldn't own anything with them that's all.
Reliability of the leds, or the fixtures?

I had 5 fixtures run long term (3 EverGrow, 1 OceanRevive and 1 Reef Radiance) running for 24 years total. That's an average of almost 5 years per fixture, and 3 of them ran 6 years none stop. I never had an led burn out. I've had fixture issues, the Reef Radiance was junk and they totally failed to stand behind it. I ended up fixing it with EverGrow parts! I had a couple of OcenRevive fixtures with circuit board problems which they took care of. I still have an ancient Reef Breeders 165W that has to be about 6 or 7 years old that is still lighting a refugium.

I guess that covers both sides of the issue. I'm betting we both have better luck with the Photon V2!


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Old 06/04/2017, 02:37 PM   #17
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Circuit boards and several diodes have crapped out on me. That's without getting into build quality, size, hardware etc. I just couldn't see running any of the bridgelux fixtures again. If I did it would be the OR t247 though.


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Old 06/18/2017, 02:43 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Ron Reefman View Post
I don't use them at all. In my tank they add some red and green edges to the shimmer in my tank and I don't care for it. I also don't think they are very important to coral growth of color. But that's just my opinion. All the led manufacturers sure seem to think they are necessary! My personal belief is they include them to make the 'Full Spectrum' marketing claim.
Why not switch the Red/Green's out for other colors? I have thought about ordering a V2 and asking him to change the Red's and Green's for something else.. If they aren't going to be used, why have them? I don't give a crap about "Full Spectrum" if it makes the lights look like crap and don't help with anything. Maybe switch them out for some UV's?

-ThaChad


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Old 06/19/2017, 01:18 PM   #19
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Hi,

Not everyone has the same color taste, personally I always use the reds to some degree because I like the color, and the greens help for when you want to lower the kelvin rating without turning the white channel up. They have their uses, and in fact the 660nm reds are actually absorbed and used for growth in corals.

We already have tons of Violet- more than most other lights on the market, believe me, we don't skimp on other colors to to fit the reds and greens.


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Old 06/20/2017, 05:31 AM   #20
Ron Reefman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThaChad View Post
Why not switch the Red/Green's out for other colors? I have thought about ordering a V2 and asking him to change the Red's and Green's for something else.. If they aren't going to be used, why have them? I don't give a crap about "Full Spectrum" if it makes the lights look like crap and don't help with anything. Maybe switch them out for some UV's?

-ThaChad
First I don't see the need. I have more PAR than I need without the red and green leds. Second, I would have added more blues not UV or even violet. IMHO, true UV does little if anything for coral. Look at this chart and you'll see what I mean:




And in my tank I've found the blue 480nm and 450nm create more fluorescence than the violet 420nm. I just got an led strip with some 395nm true UV that I can isolate. But I have not tried runnig just the UV yet. I'd do it now but I'm out of town at the Florida Museum of Natural History 'Tropical Rainforest/ Butterfly' exhibit. I'll test it when I get home on Thursday.


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Old 06/20/2017, 08:20 AM   #21
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I run both the red and greens at 40% and unless I get the other channels under 60% I can't even tell they are on. I also run my light 18" off the water which helps color blending in sure. My current settings are

Ch1 40%
Ch2 40%
Ch3 95%
Ch4 60%
Ch5 95%
Ch6 95%

Eventually I'll have all blues at 100%, whites at 80% and the reds and greens somewhere about 50%.


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